Surrounded by the Arabian Sea on the west and Western Ghats on the east, Ratnagiri is the largest district of the Konkan region, and is home to an abundance of beautiful beaches decorated with plastic and other human litter.
Though most inhabited settlements in India are filthy, Ratnagiri is exclusive, as the litter is almost evenly and consistently spread on both sides of the road for such long stretches that it feels intentional; either to showcase the plastic production of the country or their mighty stupidity- locals and tourists alike.
This unwholesome display is at the entrance to the beach, though scattered, on the beach and at the convergence of land and sea. It is omnipresent. And this uniformity in display of trash is what stands out in this coastal district.
It is also the birthplace of freedom fighter Lokmanya Tilak.
The beauty of Satara – Offbeat Maharashtra!
My Konkan experience



Before the origin of humans, Ratnagiri would have been a must-visit place. It is still beautiful when looked at from a distance. In fact, it is gorgeous. The beaches are huge and look pristine, some are hidden from plain sight, a few can be spotted right from the road, the water is bluish, the waves are free flowing, coconut and other trees around and people I could count on my fingers; courtesy- weekdays.
Some of the beaches are a few kms off the main road, the ones that only villagers there would have an idea about. Or the ones who love a little map reading or are on crazy endeavours to explore places, even though some may feel similar. But it is the idea and hope of finding a solitary place that keeps us excited.
The days were hot, but I was hesitant to take a plunge in the cold waters even when I wanted to. Every wave at the coastal village brought a lot of water bottles and chip packets to the shore. At a few beaches, the water looked clean, but then I noticed open defecation in the waters by the villagers. It was the end of my idea of a dip, and the exploration days were cut short. The whole Konkan region, as I witnessed and understood, was primitive.
Staying unaware of the filth around can make it look like a dreamy place. Trashing with their left hand while raising their right one, asking for civic accountability is an art that a lot of Indians have mastered. In fact, it is the general behaviour. Almost everyone comes here to make their contribution for the worse.
A month in Varanasi – Ghats and People!
Exploring Beaches



Ratnagiri town is a good base to start from. Hiring a scooter here is easy, and the best way to get going unless you have your own vehicle.
The road, especially from Ratnagiri to Jaigad, is scenic. Some of it is along the coast with a lot of vantage points to admire the picturesque beaches of the west coast. Some of them are Aare, Ware, Bhandarpule, Malgund and Undi beach. This is what I enjoyed the most.
Red soil, Konkan-style huts and a few forts can be noticed on this route. One may find a few eateries here and there, nothing too fancy. Coconut water and trash are available at the viewpoints. Some of the beaches have only a few villagers around with their fishing nets. Unlike Goa, this is not touristy. There are no cafes or other anticipated entertainment modes around, just roads and trees, beaches, cool wind and the scorching sun, which attracts fewer people.
And yet, the plastic presence is amusing.
Jaigad to Ambolgad is the area I explored from north to south in a few days, though the district extends further north to Velas beach. And I hopped from one beach to another, walking on as many beaches as I could. I wonder what it would look like in the monsoon, but I don’t think I am coming back.



Beaches I visited from Jaigad to Ambolgad
At one point, it felt as if I was on some kind of mission to document the state and beauty of the beaches. Maybe I was. Here is the report:
- Jaigad – An ill-maintained fort with great views of the sea
- Undi beach – Plastic at the entrance, not popular, fewer people
- Malgund – Relatively clean, along the road, massive, beautiful
- Ganpatipule – Crowded, a temple and lots of eateries
- Bhandarpule – Relatively clean, with little to no people
- Kajirbhati – A few stalls, Litter, Ok beach
- Ware – Relatively clean, beautiful
- Aare – Relatively clean. A couple of restaurants serve as viewpoints
- Kalbadevi – Open defecation, Dirty, Lots of homestays around
- Ratnadurg – Plastic river at the fort flowing to the sea, Popular, Dirty
- Bhatye – Black sand, dirty at the entrance, crowded since near
- Wayangani – One of the most beautiful beaches here, Litter at the entrance
- Ganeshgule – Relatively clean, lesser known, Litter at the entrance
- Gaon Khadi – Dirty
- Devghali- Kasheli – A walk down to the small beach, great view from the top
- Ambolgad – Fort, Great views and plastic at vantage points, Fishermen’s beach
How to reach: Overnight bus from Pune/Mumbai.
Stay: Ratnagiri town is the best base for exploring the area by vehicle.
Scooter on hire: From Ratnagiri town. Please Google.
That’s all from Ratnagiri.
Life is short. Stay raw!


